Glashütte Original, the Swatch Group-owned firm that emerged from the end of Cold War-era nationalization of Germany’s top watchmaking companies, has had modern success with vintage-styled models like the Sixties and Seventies, which hearken back to the “Spezimatic” watches from those pre-unification decades. This year, the Saxon manufacture adds an entirely new and sporty collection called “Spezialist,” debuting with new SeaQ line of dive watches, which Glashütte Original will showcase at the WatchTime New York collectors event on October 25-26. Here is a look at the flagship of the new line, the SeaQ Panorama Date
“The self-winding Caliber 36-13 is visible through the caseback.”
Like the other new models in the collection, the mainline SeaQ and vintage-inspired SeaQ 1969 limited edition, the SeaQ Panorama Date takes inspiration from the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200″, a watch developed for sports divers. Larger than its two brothers, at 43.2 mm in diameter compared to 39.5 mm, the Panorama Date model also boasts a more robust water resistance of 300 meters. The stainless steel case has both polished and satin finished surfaces and is topped by a unidirectional rotating divers’ bezel. The dial, offered in either sunburst black or sunburst blue, is covered by a curved sapphire crystal and hosts applied numerals and indices coated, like the distinctively shaped hands, with Super-LumiNova. It also features at 4 o’clock its signature complication, an outsized date display in a double window — an element that sets this model apart from its 1960s and ’70s ancestors.
Inside the case, which meets the DIN 8306 and ISO 6425 international standards for diving watches, is the automatic Caliber 39-13, which holds a lengthy 100-hour power reserve, beats at a 28,800-vph frequency, and includes a stop-seconds function. On display behind a sapphire caseback, the lavishly decorated movement’s bayonet mounting ensures that it is anchored in the case for particularly effective shock-resistance, and its silicon balance spring provides a high level of rate precision. The SeaQ Panorama Date is available on three interchangeable wristlets: an embossed rubber strap, a water-resistant nylon mesh strap developed specially for this sporty new collection, and a flat stainless steel bracelet with an eight-step adjustment mechanism. Prices range from $11,200 on the rubber strap to $12,400 on the steel bracelet.